Through contrasts: A motorcycle journey to Kosciuszko

Sometimes, the best motorcycle journeys aren’t just about riding, as fun as this is. They’re about contrasts, surprises, and moments that stick with you long after the engine has cooled down. My recent four-day trip from Melbourne’s Fitzroy to Kosciuszko National Park ticks these boxes.

I began the first leg of my journey with a dose of culture at the La Trobe Regional Art Gallery in Morwell, where an exhibition curated by my friend Ash was on display. It showcased photographs of the valley, taken from Melbourne residents’ perspectives. One image of a KTM motorcycle particularly resonated with me – a choice I would have made myself.

La Trobe Regional Gallery

From art appreciation, the scenery quickly shifted as I rode directly through the gargantuan Loy Yang Power Station. This coal-powered behemoth is an imposing sight and a stark reminder of the energy sources fueling our world – and its emissions.

Loy Yang coal power station


The contrast continued as I went to Bruthen, nestled on the cusp of the Victorian highlands. There, I found respite in a charming caravan park by the river. A pub dinner of pizza and beer was the perfect prelude to a cold night of camping.

Bruthen camping

Day two was where the adventure truly ramped up. Barry Way, one of the most exhilarating and challenging roads I’ve ever experienced, awaited. This narrow dirt track hugged the mountainside, offering heart-stopping drops and surprise encounters with Easter holiday 4WD bunnies. I encountered an old man on a rugged Russian Ural motorcycle with a sidecar, sparking a conversation about the unexpected joys of remote bike travel.

Old school house on Barry Way


Jindabyne provided a welcome pit stop where I grabbed lunch and – crucially – bought a roast chicken from the local Woolworths to enjoy at my campsite later. That’s where things took an unexpected twist. Upon reaching Island Bend Campground, deep within Kosciuszko National Park, I found my duffle bag soaked in chicken juices and a swarm of bees buzzing with alarming intensity. I’ve never seen so many bees in one place! A frantic escape to the Snowy River for a much-needed wash ensued.

Snowy River

However, my day wasn’t done throwing challenges. A steep, rocky 4WD track leading down to the river proved too treacherous for my VStrom to climb back up. Thankfully, a helping hand from a fellow traveller was all it took to push me back onto safer terrain. That night, the bees vanished, and a heavy downpour provided a cleansing soundtrack.

Snowy Schemes

The glorious Alpine Way revealed itself as the highlight of my return journey. This winding, impeccably maintained road, devoid of other vehicles, was pure motorcycling bliss. A detour to explore the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme added a touch of awe-inspiring engineering history to the mix. This monumental project, spanning two decades, required the labour of 100,000 workers and exists primarily underground.


Capping off the adventure, I spent the night in Beechworth, staying at a converted hotel within the old Mayday Hills Lunatic Asylum. History took centre stage here, with a fantastic dinner at a local pub completing the experience. The following day, the mundane Hume Highway served as a reflective counterpoint to the twisty thrill of the previous days.

This 1200-kilometre trip witnessed the unexpected beauty found in the contrasts of life on the road. The journey through art, industry, wilderness, roads and history left me with a renewed sense of adventure and a deep appreciation for the diverse landscapes my motorcycles and I had the privilege to traverse.



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