The Easter long weekend stretched out ahead, four days that felt like a rare gift. I decided to make the most of it, setting out from Fitzroy on Good Friday with my motorbike pointed east towards Bruthen in Gippsland. The city was emptying fast; Highway 1 was thick with people eager to escape. It’s a road that seems to go on forever, not particularly exciting, but it does the job. I’ve grown fond of the “avoid all motorways” setting on Google Maps- if you’re after a more interesting ride, it rarely lets you down.
Bruthen: Where caravan park grumpiness lives on
By late afternoon, I reached Bruthen, a small town marking the start of the Great Alpine Road. I found a spot to camp by the river at the local caravan park for $20 per night. The caretaker was a classic: gruff, with a fondness for rules posted everywhere. It reminded me of share houses from the 90s, where notes on the fridge were part of the décor, usually crafted with my name at the top.
Omeo Rodeo: A detour into pure high country
The next morning, my plans shifted. I had planned to go on the Barry Way to Jinderbyne again, but over breakfast, I noticed a poster for the Omeo Rodeo and decided it was too good to miss. The ride up the Great Alpine Road was a zig-zag 100 km and worth every minute. The rodeo itself was a unique slice of Victoria, lots of character, plenty of hats, and a relaxed, welcoming crowd. The autumn light in the high country made every cowboy and girl look their best.
The Road to Mitta Mitta: A motorcycling haven
After the rodeo, I took the Omeo Highway to Mitta Mitta. This stretch turned out to be one of the most enjoyable rides I’ve had in Victoria, sealed all the way, winding through beautiful high country. Mitta Mitta is a small town, consisting mainly of a pub, a caravan park, and a general store. I camped again, this time among serious, noisy family blokes with impressive rigs. The pub was friendly, and a plate of barramundi and chips, paired with a local ale, made for a reflective and relaxed evening.
Shepparton: Cultural salvation in unexpected places
A noisy night in the caravan park meant I was ready to move on early. I set Google Maps to avoid motorways and headed back towards Fitzroy, passing through quiet towns and long, empty roads. By the time I reached Shepparton, I was ready for a break from camping and checked into a budget motel across from the Shepparton Art Museum. After a good sleep, I visited the museum, still one of my favourites, especially the Lin Onus Gallery. I visited here a few years ago, on its opening day, after returning from a long Outback trip.
The Return Journey: Homeward bound
The final stretch took me back to Fitzroy, with a stop for lunch at the Redesdale Hotel near Lake Eppalock with my sister Karen. All up, it was about 1,000 km through Victoria’s high country, which, unlike me, always seems to look its best in autumn.
There’s something quietly rewarding about seeing the landscape change from the bony seat of a bike, especially when plans shift and the unexpected becomes the highlight. The best journeys are the ones that don’t stick too closely to the script.
Bonus Omeo Rodeo vid!
Leave a Reply