From Fitzroy to Fitz Roy…[1/50]

Fitzroy, Melbourne
Fitzroy, Melbourne

Starting in January 2015 I will be taking a one-year break to travel slowly and write (slowly) about traveling. I will travel from Fitzroy in Melbourne, Australia to Fitz Roy in Patagonia, Argentina (and yes, they are both named after the same illegitimate Fitz Royals!). It is something that I have wanted to do for quite a long time, but the common aspirations kept trumping the uncommon ones. During my time away I will be traveling independently from place-to-place, starting in Fitzroy, Melbourne, and ending in Fitz Roy, Argentina (a big-arse mountain in Argentina).

I have done a lot of traveling before, but never for quite so long and never for quite so far. In my mind, much contemporary travel has become far too banal and ‘instrumental’ in terms of going to a specific place for a specific purpose for a specific amount of time. But not much fun in that!

The first part of my journey will be on familiar territory in South and East Asia and Europe. However, the majority of the trip will be in unfamiliar territory in South America. I suppose I could have gone directly to South America and skipped the other places, but I needed to re-trace a few previous paths. Travel is a bit like re-reading a complicated book; if you don’t re-read it, you will end up reading the same book over and over again.

Below is the very rough itinerary. It is both old paths and new. The first part is re-visiting places while ‘leaving behind’. The next bit is ‘death’ (after you leave behind but not literally) and the final leg is ‘re-birth’ (Fitz Roy here I come!). I will develop this Camino de Santiago-style theme some more whilst I travel as like all good research, insights will arise along the way in which I will share with you (and sorry if you subscribed to this blog expecting something else).

  • January 7-April 1, South East Asia and East Asia (Thailand, India, Nepal and walking the Annapurna Circuit)
  • April 1-30, Western Europe (London, Porto, walking the Camino de Santiago. Barcelona, Berlin)
  • May 1- December 31, South America (Bogota, Columbia to Fitz Roy, Argentina)

I will write a blog post here about once per week, so I hope you will join me!

Fitz Roy Argentina
Fitz Roy Argentina

Post card from London

14764192504_b578c0bae7_oI am sitting in my little room overlooking the strand. The room is on the corner of the Strand and Waterloo Bridge and despite the size of the room, the view is large. And this song by the Kinks is running through my head.

“Dirty Old River must you keep rolling, rolling into the night. People so busy makes me feel dizzy, taxi lights shine so bright. But I don’t need no friend, as long as gaze on Waterloo Sunset I’m in paradise…”

Overall, it is coming to the end of my trip. I do think that this has been one of my best trips ever, but it is hard to tell because I have had quite a few! Travel is exhilarating, but it is also exhausting in the sense that there is so much to do that it is important to manage ones energies. There are so many wonderfully unique and renewed perspectives that I have gained on this trip, especially here in London. Travel is about exploration, but also renewal (or revisiting afresh). It is like reading a book, if you don’t plan to read it again, don’t start reading it in the first place (to paraphrase Wilde).

So, on my last day of London I’m feeling pretty grand. I have had some wonderful experiences on this trip, and with most developed world travel, the gaps between the highs and the lows haven’t been that great.

My gut feeling tells that going to South America for a whole year next year is a really good idea, but for a new and exploratory trip like this one , I possibly need to re-visit SE Asia and India on the way, because if I don’t re-visit them, I will keep going to the same place over and over again.  I change my eyes, not my cities!

Post card from Tallinn

tallinn_tortureI arrived last night in my charming hostel in the Old Town of Tallinn, Estonia. I was greeted at the airport by my friend Jaan who I worked with in Melbourne a couple of years ago. Estonia is the 42nd country that I have visited and I am  not sure why I count how many countries I have been; it seems a little crude, but it is on a very basic level, one of may things that motivates me to explore new places. I have wanted to come to this part of Europe for many years, I have only been in Eastern Europe a couple of times, and never this close to the Russian Border. I was walking in Old Town last night and my friend Jaan pointed out a plaque on the wall of an expensive apartment building that stated that this is a place where the KGB tortured many Estonians.  I certainly evoked my imagination, especially in terms of wanting to learn more, but I don’t have that much time in Tallinn and travel is necessarily superficial. I first started traveling the exact time of the collapse of the Berlin Wall and the ghosts of the Cold War have been following me ever since.

Uncommon choices: The Australian Festival of Travel Writing

Tony Wheeler, the founder of Lonely Planet travel books.
Tony Wheeler, the founder of Lonely Planet travel books.

I am attending the Australian Festival of Travel Writing this weekend at the University of Melbourne. I have never been to an event such as this before and I am finding it extremely useful as I feel as though two important life narratives; travel and education have come together. In my case, they have never really been linked except that a love of independent learning and learning for its own sake led to a love of traveling and traveling for its own sake.

There is a lot of wisdom at the festival. And this I find this very attractive, especially if it is a wisdom that manifests itself in a love of life and knowing that a love of life requires one to make uncommon choices. There are so many traps out there that prevents people from traveling, in the broader sense of the word; traveling geographically, traveling intellectually, traveling culturally, and traveling socially. Fear and cynicism, class based prejudice, the fear of leaving ones comfort zone of pyrrhic successes.  And these limits on traveling are not unique to traveling; one could apply them equally to any sphere of achievement or at least, the fear of achievement. Achievements based on a love of life are always the greatest successes, and if one doesn’t love life, one can never be truly successful (well, at least not a success that is true to oneself).


1989, California, USA
1989, California, USA

A personal project that I have been working on in my spare time over the past few months involved locating, digitising, tagging, and putting into neat little country boxes (on Flikr) all the photos that I have taken on my travels since the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. And there are a lot of them, about 5000 photos taken in 40 counties (41 if you count Australia). And some of the countries like Germany, Thailand, the UK, and the US I have visited up to 9 times.

I have wanted to do this project for quite some time as I had difficulty remembering how many times I had visited particular countries and I was not sure how-many I had visited in-total (not that ticking-off countries is what I originally set out to do).

And in reflection, I suppose I am fairly typical of my (x) generation. The world opened-up considerably after the fall of the Berlin Wall with many former Communist-block countries lessening restrictive visa requirements and welcoming snoopy visitors. I was in the German Democratic Republic (East Germany) a couple of months after the fall of the Wall and since then have been to numerous ex-Communist countries like Hungary, Vietnam and the Czech Republic. Also, an important factor to consider, is that in all the time that I have traveled, airfares have remained pretty constant (and even become cheaper).  My first air-fare to the UK in 1989 cost $2200 economy fare, not too dissimilar to what it costs today. And average wages have increased 3-4 times in this time in tandem with the Australian GDP.

I am perhaps the last of the generation to do the coming of age ‘big-trip’ in my early 20s. For many Australians before the 1990s, it was not possible to travel from Australia regularly through-out ones’ life because the costs made it prohibitive. The ‘big trip’ involved saving for many months or even years to get the money together to buy the plane ticket and then have enough beer money once you arrived. And pretty much the only country in the world where Australians could work (and in particular, young working-class Australians) was in the UK.  I am not sure if this is still the case, but the importance of the UK to my own personal development and mobility has­ been extraordinary.  It is crucial to have special working visas and discounted fares for young people to explore the world in their 20s. The individual and country grows immensely because of it, as does the world and the sophisticated interpretations of it.

When I was younger, I also visited many countries over the summer months whilst studying at University. These were primarily in Asia which is geographically close to Australia and relatively inexpensive to get to and travel within. I mostly traveled the ‘hippy-trail’ opened up in the 1960s and 1970s by the baby-boomers; well-trodden and documented by Melbourne’s own Lonely Planet travel books.

India possible changed my thinking about the world more than any other county. Australians, like Americans and Canadians, are ‘Modernists’ (if I can be so reductive and general). We can’t be anything other than Modern and I have never quite understood how one could live their entire life in this otherwise wonderful country and be totally oblivious to the stifling level of conformity imposed upon us by our restrictive and somewhat unresponsive Modern industrial system. We have perhaps lost much more than we have gained (although we never really had it to start with and the more I travel, the less unique the Australian Way seems to me…well, at least from a Modern perspective). India opened me up to alternatives. It is a cultural superpower. It is the most culturally rich place I have been anywhere on the planet and I am sure India can take a crude Aussie Modernist like myself (with his victorious flushing toilets), in its stride.

More recently, I traveled quite a lot for work, but this was for collaboration with fellow ‘Modernists’ so was focused, instrumental, ‘de-territorised’ and I am not sure I gained a lot from it from a travelers perspective. Still, a few stolen days here and there either side of a conference or workshop are always welcome and I am lucky to have had this privilege in my career so far. Still, I have met many academics and business people who travel every-other-week and it doesn’t seem to impact upon them in any enlightened or positive way. Perhaps they approach the world and its magnificent, diverse cultures in the same way they approach other aspects of their lives (ie banally!). I prefer to change my eyes not my cities.

And speaking of such, the World according to Craig is not just about going somewhere and seeing something for the first time, it is how you experience it as a whole person in a different and enlightening way that makes the process worthwhile for you and others. In other words, it is not where you go, it is what you take with you that counts. If you are an Aussie Modernist, you probably aren’t going to get too far away from Hong Kong or Singapore. And you may even think that they are the ‘same-same, but different’. But with the right amount of prodding from some of the World’s great authors; Kapuscinski, Hess, Rushdie, Eco, Gregory David Roberts, Murikami, and Calvino you might just discover yourself and a whole world in the process.

We never travel alone, on a winter’s night there is always Herodotus and we are always the midnights children of the historical narratives that as we grow older, we inextricably absorb into our subjectivity.

And what have I learned so far? The world never gets smaller, only people get smaller.

Berlin Wall, 1990

This is a picture of me at the Berlin Wall, August 1990. I am presently updating my personal archive and in the process digitising my analogue travel pictures and putting them on Flikr. Hardwork! Many of these I have placed on the Flikr stream on the bottom of the side-bar on this blog, but I am only done the first couple of years. Only about 20 more years to go!

Heart Land Tasmania

(My mother’s garden)

It took me a while to get here, but I finally arrived in Tasmania. LA was a blast, but the 15 and a half hour plane ride over the Pacific exacerbated my world-weariness and soul-lag. I spent a few days in Melbourne eating steak, going to the beach, and catching up with friends. I have returned to this city a hundred times each time with a new set of eyes so that it gets even bigger and more complicated. It is a city that breeds ‘normal-o-paths’ but then again, so does London. The normal-o-path never knows the boundaries of their own thinking; except that there is something that is not-normal. Nothing is normal; inquisitiveness and the will to enter worlds bigger than ones self has nothing to do with geography. Normal has a long history; if the day-to-day is about forgetting each previous day then there urgently needs to be a stronger conceptual power to escape the intellectual tedium of short-term practical, empirical, and positivist thinking. If we don’t; then we will cook the planet like a steak; cook it up minute by minute, unable to connect the minutes so we cook like frogs on low heat in a saucepan; frying our narrow Google brains of facts with no narrative (remind me to cut back on the flyer-miles!).

Tasmania is at the centre of the world. It is where institutional Green politics was invented in the 1970s. More on this later…